to get quite a few things done in one go. When
highlighting, leave plenty of the original layer of black
showing. To make sure all the black areas are really black
I re-coat them in pure AP-WP1101 - Matt Black, before
commencing the highlighting.
BLACK
1.
AP-WP1101 - Matt Black mixed with
AP-WP1125 - Skeleton Bone
2.
+ AP-WP1125 - Skeleton Bone
3.
+ more AP-WP1125 - Skeleton Bone
4.
and lastly more AP-WP1125 - Skeleton Bone
THE GREATCOAT
Worn in an arrogant on the shoulders fashion the
greatcoat is the largest area of solid colour on the model
so will repay careful attention. Keep it simple; try to follow
the folds that are there and you won’t go far wrong.
1.
AP-WP1101 - Matt Black mixed with AP-WP1118 -
Uniform Grey
2.
+ AP-WP1118 - Uniform Grey
3.
+ more AP-WP1118 - Uniform Grey
4.
and finally pure AP-WP1118 - Uniform Grey
some fine piping on the top edge of his collar. I did these
first as they are very small areas and would be more
difficult to do at the end. Painting them in first allows you
to correct any mistakes by painting over the slips with
black AP-WP1101 - Matt Black.
WHITE
1.
AP-WP1102 - Matt White
+ AP-WP1117 - Ash Grey
2.
+ more AP-WP1102 - Matt White
3.
+ more AP-WP1102 - Matt White
4.
pure AP-WP1102 - Matt White
SASH
Infuriatingly his sash has narrow bands of red and blue
running along it; I painted these on in AP-WP1104 - Pure
Red and AP-WP1116 - Deep Blue, with no shading or
highlighting. Try to do them in one steady stroke, both
colours cover quite well when painted over the white of
the sash, and you can easily correct mistakes by
touching in with pure AP-WP1102 - Matt White. You
could paint the sash silver if you prefer and forget the
stripes!
UNIFORM
Now normally I would have done all the piping on his
uniform first, but as the piping is to be black I decided to
leave it till after I had painted the blue of the jacket as
that was likely to be the trickiest bit to do. I could then
correct any mistakes with AP-WP1101 - Matt Black.