FROSTGRAVE PLASTIC WIZARDS FROSTGRAVE PLASTIC WIZARDS
© North Star Military Figures Click here to order Click here to order Home Latest North Star Stargrave Frostgrave Oathmark Crusader Artizan Great War Shieldwolf download pdf download jpg download pdf download jpg Turkey Rider. Background by Jon Hodgson Backdrops, used under licence. North Star Magazine home page
I really like being able to use my miniatures in multiple gaming systems, so the vast majority of my current collection are based with magnets – most notably seen in my Midgard Heroic Battles units.  When a test game of Hairfoot Jousting popped up at the club, Northstar’s Nick asked me if I’d consider doing some of the figures with magnets.  Having had a look at the range (being particularly enamoured of the goblin riding a horn frog) I thought about it for thirty seconds and said yes! The mechanisms of Hairfoot and Wartnose Jousting require models used to have a 60mm diameter round base.  This is actually really important in the game, as it fits onto the movement templates and determines your rider’s area of effect (especially important when giant geese and cockroaches will often have their own ideas about where they want to go on the table!)  However, not everyone’s going to want to mount their minis permanently onto a 60mm base – including me - so here’s how I went about it.
Above. Turkey Rider. Background by Jon Hodgson Backdrops, used under licence.
STEP 3: TEXTURING THE BASES I use a home-made mix of acrylic paint, filler and chinchilla sand to build up texture on my bases and hide the model’s integral base, which is applied with some a cheap plastic clay sculpting tool.  You could, of course, use one of the numerous ready-mixed basing options on the market.  Whichever you choose, the golden rule is always to avoid getting any texture in between the magnetic surfaces, as this will stop the model sticking to its base!  When covering the 60mm base, there’s no problem if a few gaps get left – this can be covered up with tufts. The Wartnose Goblins apparently like to joust in muddy arenas, so I thought I’d vary their bases from the lush fields of the Halflings.  I decided to use the same technique I had done for my Great War Western Front models, creating puddles and pools.  This was done by leaving some areas of the base uncovered and then using an old wet paint brush to round these into puddle shapes. 
STEP 4: BASE PAINTING After drying, all the 60mm bases were sprayed with a quick coat of dark brown aerosol paint (Halfords Camo Brown in this case).  This gave the base a uniform colour and covered up the edges and magnetic areas. Now I used some dry brushing to bring the bases to life: first up was an all-over brush of Army Painter Fanatic Leather Brown, followed by a very light highlight on selected areas with AP Barren Dune. (Be careful not to go mad with this unless you want a desert-themed base!) Finally, the goblins’ muddy bases merited some further attention on the puddle areas.  Two layers of brown ink really helps to create the impression of depth here.  I used Winsor and Newton Nut Brown ink but any dark brown ink wash will do the job.  When dry, this was given a coat of Army Painter Fanatic paint-on Gloss Varnish to create the illusion of water.  Again, you can use any (non-aerosol) gloss varnish
Basing materials. The 25mm bases were Northstar’s own plastic ones; 30mm were 2mm MDF from Warbases.
STEP 2: PREPARING THE 60mm BASES With the minis on their magnetised bases, I needed to make sure that there was something secure for them to stick on to on the 60mm round base. I tried out two options, 25mm washers from my local hardware store
The prepared magnetised 25mm and 30mm round bases depending on the size of the mount. The 60mm round bases with 25mm washers from my local hardware store. I use a home-made mix of acrylic paint, filler and chinchilla sand to build up texture on my bases. I decided to use the same technique I had done for my Great War Western Front models, creating puddles and pools.  Above. Dry brushing to bring the bases to life: stages: 1) plain base, 2) Leather Brown drybrush, 3) Barren Dune drybrush, 4) ink and gloss varnish] After drying, all the 60mm bases were sprayed with a quick coat of dark brown aerosol paint (Halfords Camo Brown in this case).  This gave the base a uniform colour and covered up the edges and magnetic areas. The miniatures also received a matching layer of texture on their bases at this point.
Above. I use a home-made mix of acrylic paint, filler and chinchilla sand to build up texture on my bases.
Above. I decided to use the same technique I had done for my Great War models, creating puddles and pools.
I’m a huge fan of the Gamers Grass tufts - as you can see, I’ve got quite a collection!
STEP 1: BASING THE MINIATURES Having painted and varnished the models, I prepared some magnetised 25mm and 30mm round bases depending on the size of the mount.  The 25mm bases were Northstar’s own plastic ones; 30mm were 2mm MDF from Warbases.  You can use any form of magnet that suits as long as it’s strong enough to hold the model in position (note that some cheap magnetic tape won’t hold a metal mini very well).  Here I have used some of the pre-cut self-adhesive magnetic discs from Magnetic Displays, alongside some neodynium magnets (both ultra-thin, glued to the bottom of the MDF base or a 1.5mm thick inserted into a 5mm diameter hole – superglue was used to attach them in both cases).  These kinds of magnets are also available from Magnetic Displays and many eBay sellers.
Below. Basing materials.
and some of the self-adhesive green steel paper (again from Magnetic Displays).  The washers were superglued into position – they sit quite proud of the base, but this was actually an advantage in that I was easily able to avoid covering them in basing gunk in the next step.
Above. The prepared magnetised 25mm and 30mm round bases depending on the size of the mount.
Above. The 60mm round bases with 25mm washers from my local hardware store.
The miniatures also received a matching layer of texture on their bases at this point.
Above. The miniatures also received a matching layer of texture on their bases at this point.
Above. all the 60mm bases were sprayed with a quick coat of dark brown aerosol paint.
that you like – this is just what I had to hand as I had already used it to give the giant roach a particularly unpleasant slimy look!
STEP 5: TIME FOR TUFTS Working with thinned-down PVA glue, firstly I added some patches of static grass to the halfling bases – goblins got a few pieces of fine grit instead.  I’m a huge fan of the Gamers Grass tufts - as you can see, I’ve got quite a collection!  It’s by no means necessary to have this many, but I find that having two different variants on a base really helps to create a naturalistic look.  These were applied with a pair of tweezers and a dot of PVA glue. Gamers Graft tufts used on these bases were as follows: Halflings: GG12-SG - Strong Green XL GG12-DG - Dry Green XL GG6-DG - Dry Green GG6-LG - Light Green GGF-YE - Yellow Flowers GGF-WH - White Flowers Goblins: GG2-DG - Dry Green 2mm GG6-BE - Beige GG12-BE - Dense Beige XL GG12-JU - Jungle XL The XL variety of tufts are 12mm tall and really come into their own on  bigger bases like movement trays.  In this case, I used them around the edge of the magnetic area to help conceal the join with the separate figure base.  Some tufts were also snipped in half down the middle with a pair of scissors to create different shapes and better fit the area around the miniature.  Once again, take care to keep the magnetic areas clear so that the model will still stick into place. STEP 6: MARK THE FRONT The only thing left to do at this point was to add a small white line of acrylic paint at the front of the base – essential for using the jousting templates that are used in the game.  I considered doing it with a tuft of flowers or a beige line but decided that those would be forgotten about in the heat of the arena, so went for good old white paint instead. With this done, my jousters were ready to roll.  The models were a joy to paint and I’m very pleased that
Above. Dry brushing to bring the bases to life: stages: 1) plain base, 2) Leather Brown drybrush, 3) Barren Dune drybrush, 4) ink and gloss varnish]
Above. I’m a huge fan of the Gamers Grass tufts - as you can see, I’ve got quite a collection!
It’s by no means necessary to have this many, but I find that having two different variants on a base really helps to create a naturalistic look.  These were applied with a pair of tweezers and a dot of PVA glue.
Above & Below. I find that having two different variants of tufts on a base really helps to create a naturalistic look. 
It’s by no means necessary to have this many, but I find that having two different variants on a base really helps to create a naturalistic look.  These were applied with a pair of tweezers and a dot of PVA glue.
I’m going to be able to switch them between systems with the magnetic basing…I already have plans for a Midgard unit of frog-riding goblins!  Watch this space.
Hairfoot Jouster riding a Giant Weasel mounted on a 30mm and his 60mm jousting base. Hairfoot Jouster riding a Giant Weasel mounted on a 30mm and his 60mm jousting base.
Above. Hairfoot Jouster riding a Giant Weasel mounted on a 30mm base and his 60mm jousting base.
Hairfoot Jouster riding a Goose mounted on a 25mm base and her 60mm jousting base. Hairfoot Jouster riding a Goose mounted on a 25mm base and her 60mm jousting base.
Above. Hairfoot Jouster riding a Goose mounted on a 25mm base and her 60mm jousting base.
Wartnose Jouster Riding a Centipede mounted on a 30mm base and its 60mm jousting base. Wartnose Jouster Riding a Centipede mounted on a 30mm base and its 60mm jousting base.
Above. Wartnose Jouster Riding a Centipede mounted on a 30mm base and its 60mm jousting base.
Wartnose Jouster Riding a Roach mounted on a 30mm base and its 60mm jousting base. Wartnose Jouster Riding a Roach mounted on a 30mm base and its 60mm jousting base.
Above. Wartnose Jouster Riding a Roach mounted on a 30mm base and its 60mm jousting base.
Wartnose Jouster Riding a Hornfrog mounted on a 25mm base and its 60mm jousting base. Wartnose Jouster Riding a Hornfrog mounted on a 25mm base and its 60mm jousting base.
Above. Wartnose Jouster Riding a Hornfrog mounted on a 25mm base and its 60mm jousting base.
Hairfoot Jouster riding a Turkey mounted on a 25mm base and his 60mm jousting base. Hairfoot Jouster riding a Turkey mounted on a 25mm base and his 60mm jousting base.
Above. Hairfoot Jouster riding a Turkey mounted on a 25mm base and his 60mm jousting base.
Wartnose Jouster Riding a Hornfrog and Hairfoot Jouster riding a Turkey both mounted on 20mm bases. Turkey rider finished showing magnet.
Above. Wartnose Jouster Riding a Hornfrog and Hairfoot Jouster riding a Turkey both mounted on 25mm bases. Right. Turkey rider finished showing magnet.
By James Morris @mogsymakes.net By James Morris @mogsymakes.net