SPEARS
Because they are so simple to cut to any desired size, the
plastic spears may be used for a wide variety of models,
from Matabele warriors to late eighteenth-century
pikemen.
CLEAN
I carefully removed the spears from the sprue using the
side-cutters I use for everything; this is much safer than
using a knife (you are far more likely to break the spear or
even cut yourself with even a sharp knife), though the
specialised frame side-cutters may be an even better
option. There are few moulding lines on the spears, but a
quick scrape along the length with a scalpel will quickly
remove them.
Above. A 1690’s English pikeman, a Greek Hoplite and Thureophoroi and a Dark Ages Irish Warrior.
LENGTH
The plastic spears come in one size of 80mm and must be
cut down for most occasions, with the exception of
Pikemen. I trimmed them with the same side cutters,
finishing with a scalpel. As previously indicated, I left the
pikemen's spears at 80mm, the Hoplite and Thureophoroi
spears are cut to 50mm, the Irish javelin 35mm, and
25mm for the Matabele warriors' Iklwa stabbing spear.
DRILLING
After I finished cleaning up the rest of the figure, I focused
on his hand. The hand here is quite wide open, and
attaching the spear without any attention would have been
unconvincing. So I carefully closed his hand by pressing
the fingers and closing the opening for the spear. Once
this was completed, I drilled the hand with the 1.4mm drill
bit. I then removed the swarf with a scalpel. The drill was
then run back through to ensure that the hole was clear.
ALTERNATIVELY
Some models, like this pikeman are cast with more open
hands that are roughly the correct size, so you won't
necessarily need to follow the preceding steps. To check
the fit, I offered up the pike, and after cleaning the hand
with my scalpel and making sure it fitted properly, I used
superglue to secure the spear in place. I frequently use a
long pin to apply superglue rather than squeezing it
directly from the bottle; this decreases the possibility of
sticky accidents. And the pike is securely set in place.
FITTING
The spear was a bit too loose when I tried it in the hand.
So, with the spear in position, I used an old blunt bladed
sculpting tool to carefully close the hand around the spear,
pinching it in place but not damaging the fingers
themselves. Tidy up with a file to ensure everything is
smooth and neat. Next, use capillary action to pull the
medium-viscosity superglue into the hole and around the
spear to secure it in place. I also attached it to the base
because I like to attach spears to multiple locations if
possible.
Below. Carefully remove the spears from the sprue using
side-cutters, this is much safer than using a knife.
Below right. The few moulding lines on the spears can be
quickly removed by scraping along the length with a scalpel.
GIRTH
The spears have a diameter of 1.3mm; my nearest drill bit
is 1.4mm, so I used that for the majority of the drilling out
to take the spears, and it allowed for some play and to
accept glue. I used both a hand drill and a powered drill.
Above. The plastic spears come in one size of 80mm to be
cut down for most occasions, with the exception of Pikemen.
Above. The spears have a diameter of 1.3mm; my nearest
drill bit is 1.4mm, close enough to allow some play.
Right. I carefully closed his hand by pressing the fingers and
closing the opening for the spear.
Below. I drilled the hand with the 1.4mm drill bit.
Above. I then removed the swarf from the drilling with a
scalpel.
Above. The drill was then run back through to ensure that
the hole was clear.
Right and below. The spear was a bit too loose when I tried
it in the hand.
Below Right. I used an old blunt bladed sculpting tool to
carefully close the hand around the spear
Above. Capillary action to pulls the medium-viscosity
superglue around the spear to secure it in place.
Above. I also attached it to the base because I like to attach
spears to multiple locations if possible.
Right. The pikeman has more open hands that are roughly
the correct size for the spear.
Below. To check the fit, I offered up the pike.
Below right. Cleaning the hand with my scalpel.
Above. I use a pin to apply superglue rather than squeezing
it directly from the bottle; this decreases sticky accidents.
Above. The pike is securely set in place, with two points of
contact.
Above. A Dark Ages Irish Warrior, 1690’s pikeman, a Greek Hoplite and a Greek Thureophoroi with various sizes of spears.
Above. A 1690’s English pikeman, a Greek Hoplite and Thureophoroi and a Dark Ages Irish Warrior.