shades, two, three or four contiguous shades at one
end or the other, or in the middle, jump shades,
missing every other one, or do none of these. I did
some of these and some things differently, as is my
habit.
UNDERCOATING
Undercoating is essential because it provides a
consistent surface on which to apply the subsequent
coats of paint, here I have use a dark grey spray
primer from Colour Forge called Standard Grey, which
gives a very fine smooth finish and a new one to me.
PAINTING
The painting is done using my well-known method of
working from dark to light, made all the more
straightforward using the Flexible Triads (I do also like
the way each pot tells you what it is and where it fits
in the triad, handy if you get lost). This three, four, or
more colour painting method employs successive
tones of colour (shade, middle, and light) that are
applied to the model in layers, progressing from dark
to lighter. This produces a striking three-dimensional
effect of shadows and highlights. If you've never
painted this way before, it may appear
counterintuitive, but stick with it.
PAINT
First off, damn, I didn't use a Triad at all! Despite
being part of the Cool Reds Triad, I started by
painting the mouth and eyes in Pure Red without any
highlighting.
ROBE
Looking at the Black & Grey Flexible Triad, I could
tell the transitions were going to be too dramatic for
my tastes, I had planned to do 50/50 mixes between
colours where I needed more subtle gradations of
shade, but that wasn’t going to wash either, so I did
as follows, trying to keep things as regular as I could:
1.
Matt Black.
2.
Matt Black plus Deep Grey (20% Deep
Grey).
3.
plus more Deep Grey (20% Deep Grey).
4.
plus even more Deep Grey (20% Deep
Grey).
5.
plus yet more Deep Grey (20% Deep Grey).
6.
Deep Grey.
7.
Uniform Grey.
ARMY PAINTER SAY “Light Neutrals is a versatile palette
ideal for painting various materials and creating a realistic
and aged look on various surfaces. With the range of colours
in this triad, you can depict the worn fabric of desert nomads,
the weather-beaten sails of a ship, or a monk’s dusty robes.
The triad is also perfect for bones, skeletons, and details,
such as simulating the wear, tear, dust, and sun-fading that
occur over time on organic and inorganic materials.”
ARMY PAINTER SAY
“Whether you’re painting a
grim, shadow-laden warrior
or aiming for a monochrome
theme, the Flexible Triad:
Black & Greys is a must-have
in any painter’s tool-kit. It’s a
versatile range perfect for
striking contrasts and
building depth through
shadows and highlights.”
Cloak 1. Brigandine Brown.
Cloak 2. Brigandine Brown plus Bootstrap Brown (equal
parts mix).
Cloak 3. Bootstrap Brown.
Cloak 4. Bootstrap Brown plus Leather Brown (25% Leather
Brown).
Cloak 5. plus more Leather Brown (25% Leather Brown).
Cloak 6. Leather Brown.
Cloak 7. Leather Brown plus Paratrooper Tan (equal parts
mix).
Cloak 8. Paratrooper Tan.
ARMY PAINTER SAY “These paints are ideal for painting
everything from the rough bark of tree trunks to the textured
fur and leather armour surfaces. They also excel in
portraying the natural terrain of earthen landscapes. When
you’re painting leather of any kind and in any condition, the
paints in the Ruddy Browns are indispensable.”
VAMPIRES
In Oathmark, vampires are extremely uncommon; in
fact, we only produce one, and he is the top undead
commander, leading an army of Oathmark undead
rather than hunting down virgins. I have painted
various vampires over the years, for Frostgrave
particularly, but also for Dracula’s America, and Nick
tasked me with this one. He is a very menacing-
looking creature, with a mouthful of sharp teeth, all
muscle and sinew.
FANATICS
Coincidentally, this vampire seemed like a good fit for
my next project to test out the new(ish) Army Painter
Warpaints Fanatic range. I’d had the new Fanatic
paints since their release (kindly supplied by Nick and
The Army Painter), but I had been using the old Army
Painter paints to finish other projects. I'd read good
things about them, and they appeared to have fixed
some of the flaws in the old paints. So it seems ideal
to combine the two things and write it up so you can
see how I did.
TRIADS
Of course, you could use the new The Army Painter
Warpaints Fanatic as a massive palette of nice
colours and mix and match as you see fit, as I had
done with the previous range for the past 12 years or
so. However, I was more interested in trying out the
"Flexible Triad" system, which looked promising on
paper at least. It also made me nostalgic for the Triad
system (though we didn’t call it that) I designed for
another manufacturer about 20 years ago, which I
believe was the first of its kind, and is still in
production; it wasn't perfect, but it was a reasonable
attempt at following my style of layered painting in an
ABC three shades kind of way.
SEXTET
Interestingly, each Fanatic triad has six colours, which
seems counterintuitive. I'm not sure triads was the
best name for a set of six paints, but it conveys the
right idea and is common painters' parlance, a sort of
shorthand for a multi-layered approach to painting
and is the way I have painted for over forty years. The
flexibility stems from the fact that you can use all six
Vampire Painting
Above. The painted vampire emerges from his barrow to lead the army of the Undead.
Flesh 1. Grey Castle.
The Vampire primed and ready for action, well painting...
BOOTS
Similar again with this, the Ruddy Brown Triad, but
this one contains two of my favourite colours from the
old paints, though they are not exactly the same tones
as the old ones, Oak Brown and Fur Brown and
more intermixing as follows:
1.
Oak Brown.
2.
Tree Ancient.
3.
Dryad Brown.
4.
Dryad Brown plus Fur Brown (equal parts
mix).
5.
Fur Brown.
6.
Fur Brown plus Ruddy Umber (equal parts
mix).
Using the
new Army
Painter
Flexible Triad
system on
the Undead
Flesh 2. Gargoyle Grey.
Flesh 3. Great Hall Grey.
Flesh 4. Worn Stone.
Flesh 5. Brainmatter Beige.
Flesh 6. Brainmatter Beige plus Matt White (equal parts mix).
Claws & teeth 1. Dusty Skull.
2. Tomb King Tan
3. Skeleton Bone.
4. Ancient Stone
5. Boney Spikes.
Claws & teeth 6. Pale Sand.
Robe 1. Matt Black.
Robe 2. Matt Black plus Deep Grey (20% Deep Grey).
Robe 3. plus more Deep Grey (20% Deep Grey).
Robe 4. plus even more Deep Grey (20% Deep Grey).
Robe 5. plus yet more Deep Grey (20% Deep Grey).
Robe 6. Deep Grey.
Robe 7. Uniform Grey.
Hair 1. Uniform Grey.
Hair 2. Uniform Grey plus
Ash Grey (equal parts mix).
Hair 3. Ash Grey.
Hair 4. Ash Grey plus
Company Grey (equal parts
mix).
Hair 5. Company Grey.
Hair 6. Brigade Grey.
Boots 1. Oak Brown.
Boots 2. Tree Ancient.
Boots 3. Dryad Brown.
Boots 4. Dryad Brown plus
Fur Brown (equal parts mix).
Boots 5. Fur Brown.
Boots 6. Fur Brown plus Ruddy
Umber (equal parts mix).
METAL
This is my own inflexible triad that I have used for
many years with the old paints with addition of the
Verdigris Effects paint, and it still works OK with the
new ones, hooray!
1.
Rough Iron.
2.
Rough Iron plus Weapon Bronze (equal
parts mix).
3.
Weapon Bronze.
4.
Greedy Gold.
5.
Effects: Verdigris.
Metal 1. Rough Iron.
Metal 2. Rough Iron plus
Weapon Bronze (equal parts
mix).
Metal 3. Weapon Bronze.
Metal 4. Greedy Gold.
Metal 5. Effects: Verdigris
FINISHED
Well almost, I painted the big rock in the same triad
as the hair and the base using the Browns Triad
starting from Leather Brown and working up through
Paratrooper Tan and Command Khaki to Urban Buff.
Finished painting.
Finished painting.
Finished painting.
BASED
The base is made of plastic and measures 25mm
square by Renedra Plastic Accessories. I used
superglue to hold the model in place and blew over it
to keep the glue from whitening. I then filled in the
gaps between the model's bases and square base
with household filler and allowed it to harden
overnight. I then applied some sharp sand with white
PVA glue.
After the sand dried completely, I painted the entire
base with
1.
Leather Brown.
2.
Then dry-brushed on Desert Yellow.
3.
Then a light dry-brush of Skeleton Bone.
I then added some foliage. Gamers Grass Light
Brown flock tufts, followed by Gale Force 9
Winter/Dead Static Grass, and he’s ready for battle!
TOP TIP. I found it essential to mix the paint properly, to this
end, on the advice of Nick and Mark I bought myself a cheap
paint shaker, designed more for nail varnish, and very
effective it is too, at well, shaking and it saves your wrists
from trauma.