The wonderful thing about our North Star 1672 range is that the figures will do for many different nations armies in the period 1665-1680. This isbecause it is a time just before uniforms, and the figures are all dressed in the fashions common amongst soldiers throughout Western Europe.
This of course includes Britain.The years covered by our range is called the Restoration Period inBritain as it was the time the monarchy, represented by Charles II, was restored after the English Civil War. It was also the genesis of the British Army. Britain, tired of soldiersand war, had disbanded much of it’s forces after the Civil War andOliver Cromwell’s reign. With the return of Charles II to England in1660, the units still under arms swore allegiance to the King andbecame the senior units of the British Army.Some of the infantry regiments:Coldstream GuardsGrenadier GuardsScots Guards1st Regiment (Royal Scots)2nd Regiment (The Queen’s)3rd Regiment (The Buffs)
Colour.
PAINTING BABOONS
I then glued the models to a piece of scrap card ready forpainting.UNDERCOATINGUndercoating is essential as it provides a consistent surfaceon which to apply the next coats of paint, and it shows up thedetail on a model much more clearly than shiny bare metal. The UndercoatFor undercoating the baboons I used Humbrol enamel mattblack. You want the undercoat to be as matt as possible so the detail on the model is easier to see. For an acrylic undercoat itis a good idea to use a matting agent, as acrylics tend to benaturally a bit shinier.I brushed the paint on with a Small Drybrush brush makingsure I covered the entire model. Don’t let the paint poolanywhere as this will dry very thick and could obscuredetails. Also watch out for any stray hairs detaching fromyour brush and sticking to the model during undercoating.Pull them off with tweezers before they become permanentlyattached! Take particular care not to clog up the face and fur,don’t be afraid to go back and clear runs or blobs of undercoat off with your brush. I then let the undercoat dry completelybefore going on to paint the models.PAINTINGThe figure painting follows my well known method ofworking from dark to light shaded form a black undercoat.This three or more colour painting method uses successivetones of colour (shade, middle and light) which are added tothe model in layers, working up from dark to light. Thiscreates a bold three-dimensional effect of shadows andhighlights, the layers of colour giving greater depth andsubtlety to the model. For the facial detail I used a WarpaintsDetail brush and for the eyes I used an Insane Detail brush.
BACKGROUNDAmongst the North Star Africa range are a number of usefulanimals, whether to use and creatures in their own right or asdecoration on a large base with human models. Being fond ofmonkeys I wanted to have a go at the baboons. For this articleI am painting the pack of models AA04 - Baboons, which hasthree rather sedentary baboons in lifelike poses. PREPARATIONSo I had to do some research, which mostly involved askingmy anthropologist niece, “What do baboons look like?” Fromwhich I got a Niagara of pictures and other useful information,leading me to conclude these models looked most like OliveBaboons (who of course are not Olive!) from equatorialAfrican countries, very nearly ranging from the east to westcoast of the continent, which makes them ideal to go with theNorth Star Africa human models, a lot of whom hail from asimilar area. The other pictures also gave me some otherideas… Mandrills they might be a bit of fun, how different arethey from baboons? Could I convert these models to one ofthe most peculiar and colourful primates? Yes why not, theyare to closely related to the baboons after all, but it wouldneed some work, more of which later.CleaningThese models required some “cleaning up” before painting.Using a scalpel and needle files I removed all the visiblemould lines – these are the thin lines that run right around themodel. Scraping the knife blade carefully along the mouldline, as if you are peeling the skin from a potato, holding theblade at roughly ninety degrees to the surface. Finishing offthe scraped surface with a small file to ensure that the area isall nice and smooth, but try not to destroy the texture of thefur as you go. As a final word on preparing models, please becareful when using any sharp modelling tools.