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Above. I paint the eyes first so I can get them right before
doing the rest of the model, as if the eyes are not good it will
spoil the rest of the paint job!
doing the rest of the model, as if the eyes are not good it will
spoil the rest of the paint job!
PRIMER AND Undercoat
I primed the Orc first with aerosol grey car primer, spray on
lightly so as not the clag the detail. Then for the undercoat I
used Humbrol enamel matt black. You want the undercoat to
be as matt as possible so the detail on the model is easier to
see. For an acrylic undercoat it is a good idea to use a matting
agent, as acrylics tend to be naturally a bit shinier.
I brushed the undercoat on with a Warpaints Small Dry Brush
brush making sure I covered the entire model. Don’t let the
paint pool anywhere as this will dry very thick and could
obscure details. Also watch out for any stray hairs detaching
from your brush and sticking to the model during
undercoating. Pull them off with tweezers before they become
permanently attached! Take particular care not to clog up the
face and similar fine detail areas, don’t be afraid to go back
and clear runs or blobs of undercoat off with your brush. I
then let the undercoat dry completely before going on to paint
the models.
THE COLOUR SCHEME
Fortunately I had great pictures on the box as guidance, which
always makes life much easier, so I more or less copied them!
PAINTING
The painting follows my well known method of working from
dark to light shaded form a black undercoat. This three, four,
five or more colour painting method uses successive tones of
colour (shade, middle and light) which are added to the model
in layers, working up from dark to light. This creates a bold
three-dimensional effect of shadows and highlights, the layers
of colour giving greater depth and subtlety to the model. It
may seem counterintuitive if you haven’t painted this way
before, but bear with me.
THE PAINT
I used Army Painter paints to paint the Orc, mixing up
colours to suit my style and preferences. They provide an
adequate range of colours for almost all needs, but you will
often need to mix colours to get the desired results, however I
have tried to work our combinations of colours to reduce this
a bit.
The amount of paint you squeeze out to use is harder to judge,
I usually mix up more than I need, which better than not
having enough, I’m afraid I have grown a bit lazy with using
pre-mixed paint systems.
Lastly don’t get too much paint on your brush, less than a
third of the way up the hairs on the brush in the paint is plenty,
never dip the brush all the way up to the metal ferrule, or you
will ruin that brush in short order.
THE EYES AND MOUTH
For such a large model he has quite small eyes, so they need
careful attention. I paint the eyes first so I can get them right
before doing the rest of the model, as if the eyes are not good
it will spoil the rest of the paint job! If you are not confident
lightly so as not the clag the detail. Then for the undercoat I
used Humbrol enamel matt black. You want the undercoat to
be as matt as possible so the detail on the model is easier to
see. For an acrylic undercoat it is a good idea to use a matting
agent, as acrylics tend to be naturally a bit shinier.
I brushed the undercoat on with a Warpaints Small Dry Brush
brush making sure I covered the entire model. Don’t let the
paint pool anywhere as this will dry very thick and could
obscure details. Also watch out for any stray hairs detaching
from your brush and sticking to the model during
undercoating. Pull them off with tweezers before they become
permanently attached! Take particular care not to clog up the
face and similar fine detail areas, don’t be afraid to go back
and clear runs or blobs of undercoat off with your brush. I
then let the undercoat dry completely before going on to paint
the models.
THE COLOUR SCHEME
Fortunately I had great pictures on the box as guidance, which
always makes life much easier, so I more or less copied them!
PAINTING
The painting follows my well known method of working from
dark to light shaded form a black undercoat. This three, four,
five or more colour painting method uses successive tones of
colour (shade, middle and light) which are added to the model
in layers, working up from dark to light. This creates a bold
three-dimensional effect of shadows and highlights, the layers
of colour giving greater depth and subtlety to the model. It
may seem counterintuitive if you haven’t painted this way
before, but bear with me.
THE PAINT
I used Army Painter paints to paint the Orc, mixing up
colours to suit my style and preferences. They provide an
adequate range of colours for almost all needs, but you will
often need to mix colours to get the desired results, however I
have tried to work our combinations of colours to reduce this
a bit.
The amount of paint you squeeze out to use is harder to judge,
I usually mix up more than I need, which better than not
having enough, I’m afraid I have grown a bit lazy with using
pre-mixed paint systems.
Lastly don’t get too much paint on your brush, less than a
third of the way up the hairs on the brush in the paint is plenty,
never dip the brush all the way up to the metal ferrule, or you
will ruin that brush in short order.
THE EYES AND MOUTH
For such a large model he has quite small eyes, so they need
careful attention. I paint the eyes first so I can get them right
before doing the rest of the model, as if the eyes are not good
it will spoil the rest of the paint job! If you are not confident
about painting eyes leave them unpainted, it will look fine.
The eyes are AP-WP1121 - Desert Yellow, then AP-WP1121 -
Desert Yellow plus AP-WP1102 - Matt White. Follow the detail
on the model, and don’t worry if you don’t get it quite right
because you can neaten up the white with some AP-WP1101 -
Matt Black.
You need to do the inside mouth first, as it will become almost
impossible to reach without getting paint all over the teeth and
jaws. There is a surprising amount of detail in the mouth.
THE MOUTH
1.
AP-WP1142 - Chaotic Red
2.
AP-WP1142 - Chaotic Red
plus AP-WP1102 - Matt White
3.
plus AP-WP1102 - Matt White
4.
and plus even more AP-WP1102 - Matt White
FLESH
Absolutely the most important part of any Orc, gosh! Before
painting I thinned the paint slightly with an acrylic thinner, with
also help to release any trapped air bubbles in the paint. Also I
did more layers than normal as I wanted a dramatic look to the
flesh.
I started with the head doing all the bits around the eyes first,
then the feet and hand and then rest of the body. Make sure you
have mixed up enough paint, as there is a lot of flesh to do on
this quite large model.
The eyes are AP-WP1121 - Desert Yellow, then AP-WP1121 -
Desert Yellow plus AP-WP1102 - Matt White. Follow the detail
on the model, and don’t worry if you don’t get it quite right
because you can neaten up the white with some AP-WP1101 -
Matt Black.
You need to do the inside mouth first, as it will become almost
impossible to reach without getting paint all over the teeth and
jaws. There is a surprising amount of detail in the mouth.
THE MOUTH
1.
AP-WP1142 - Chaotic Red
2.
AP-WP1142 - Chaotic Red
plus AP-WP1102 - Matt White
3.
plus AP-WP1102 - Matt White
4.
and plus even more AP-WP1102 - Matt White
FLESH
Absolutely the most important part of any Orc, gosh! Before
painting I thinned the paint slightly with an acrylic thinner, with
also help to release any trapped air bubbles in the paint. Also I
did more layers than normal as I wanted a dramatic look to the
flesh.
I started with the head doing all the bits around the eyes first,
then the feet and hand and then rest of the body. Make sure you
have mixed up enough paint, as there is a lot of flesh to do on
this quite large model.
