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THE BLACK BITS Belts, scabbards and other bits and pieces, colours as follows: 1.  Matt Black plus Skeleton Bone  2.  plus Skeleton Bone 3.  plus more Skeleton Bone  4.  plus more Skeleton Bone  THE SHIELDS & TRANSFERS This is where things are a bit different. The LBMS shield  Transfers are superb designs and fit the elf shields perfectly  well, but need a bit of careful preparation to get right (there are  also transfers for quivers and banners). However if you follow  the correct procedure they will reward you with stunning  shields with consistent and beautiful designs that are ideal for  the models. The first thing to say is they are not waterside transfers in the  traditional sense, in that you don’t throw then in some warm  water and watch them float away from the backing paper. Think  of them more as a kind of sticker and you won’t go very far  wrong. What you see when you look at the designs on the sheet of  LMB transfers is the surface that actually sticks down to the  shield or whatever, so it is in fact, a reverse of the final image  (this become more obvious if there is any writing on the  design). And so that final image is able to be seen through the  transfer as they are translucent, and this means you must to  apply them on a white or light surface otherwise you won’t see  the design at all clearly, (the printed transfers has no white in it  as it is printed on a RGB printer). All clear so far?  Well it’s not a complicated as I made it sound, as follows. 1.  Paint the shield Uniform Grey then Matt White as a  ground to the transfer. 2.  Then while that is drying thoroughly, cut out the design  you want to match the shield. Remembering the design you see  on the sheet is in reverse. I used my best pair of scissors to cut  
North Star Military Figures OATHMARK: BATTLES OF A LOST AGE. Fantasy Mass Battle Game from Osprey Games. Miniatures by North Star and Osprey.  The painted Elves.
Painting Elves
Above. The painted Elves.
out the main shape and a very sharp new bladed scalpel to trim  out the small cut-outs in the design. 3.  Peal off the shiny plastic film from the transfer as you  look at the design, now you have a sticky transfer waiting to be  applied to the prepared surface of the shield. Now the bit I  found most tricky, align your transfer and pop him in place on  the shield. Ouch. Now, all is not lost, if you don’t quite get it  right as you can peal him off and have another go but not to  many times. Best to have a few practice runs, not on the  models, to get the feel of it.  4.  Once you are happy with the positioning of the transfer  you moisten the white backing paper, which is now all you can  see, and it comes away with ease and quite a bit of satisfaction. 5.  To make sure the transfer is firmly down I burnished  over it with the round shiny end of one of my old sculpting  tools, if you see any trapped air pockets you can pop them with  a pin and rub it down. 6.  The last stage is to disguise the fact that you have used  transfers by painting the bits that show round the edges of the  shield. Sometimes, as I did, you may not get an exact fit of the transfer  and it leaves a bit of the white ground showing without any  design on it. Not only does this untidy but it completely gives  away the fact you have used transfers! I disguised this as  follows.  For the top blue bit I used Crystal Blue mixed with Matt White  to match the blue of the transfer, and then carried this over to  the edge of the shield too. I highlighted this mix by adding Matt  White. For the bottom halve of the design I used Drake Tooth mixed  with Filthy Cape, again carried this over the edge of the shield  as well, and then highlighted that mix by adding Matt White. Now that looks okay, but now to really sell the illusion, I  carried the sword cut-marks across the edges and sides of the  shields. Again highlighting these cut-marks with the appropriate colours highlight really finishes it off.  
THE WOODWORK The backs of the shields, bows and arrows, and the spear, I have tried to paint a wood grain effect, sometimes you regret putting  the shield in a certain place and making it awkward for yourself  to paint the back of the damn thing! Colours as follows:
1. Paint the shield Uniform Grey. 1. Paint the shield Matt White. Remembering the design you see on the sheet is in reverse. Remembering the design you see on the sheet is in reverse. Remembering the design you see on the sheet is in reverse.
2. Trim out the small cut-outs in the design.
What you are seeing there is the paper backing of the transfer.
3. Align your transfer and pop him in place.
 4. The moistened backing paper comes away.
4. The moistened backing paper comes away.
To make sure the transfer is firmly down I burnished over it with the round shiny end of one of my old sculpting tools, if you see any trapped air pockets you can pop them with a pin and rub it down.
5. Burnish over the transfer to get it down firmly.
to really sell the illusion, I carried the sword cut-marks across the edges and sides of the shields. Again highlighting these cut-marks with the appropriate colours highlight really finishes it off. to really sell the illusion, I carried the sword cut-marks across the edges and sides of the shields. Again highlighting these cut-marks with the appropriate colours highlight really finishes it off. to really sell the illusion, I carried the sword cut-marks across the edges and sides of the shields. Again highlighting these cut-marks with the appropriate colours highlight really finishes it off.
1.  Dirt Splatter   2.  plus Desert Yellow 3.  plus more Desert Yellow  4.  plus Matt White
THE BRONZE I wanted a nice deep bronze to set off the light steel armour so I  used the colours as follows. 1.  Rough Iron 2.  Rough Iron plus True Copper 3.  True Copper 4.  Weapon Bronze
VARNISH Make sure all the paint on the model is thoroughly dry before  commencing varnishing. Gloss The models were then given a coat of Humbrol polyurethane  gloss varnish and set aside for 24 hours to dry completely. Be  careful not to let the varnish pool, especially under the horse  and on the feet. You don't need a very thick coat of varnish.
The backs of the shields, bows and arrows, and the spear, I have tried to paint a wood grain effect, sometimes you regret putting the shield in a certain place and making it awkward for yourself to paint the back of the damn thing! The backs of the shields, bows and arrows, and the spear, I have tried to paint a wood grain effect, sometimes you regret putting the shield in a certain place and making it awkward for yourself to paint the back of the damn thing! The backs of the shields, bows and arrows, and the spear, I have tried to paint a wood grain effect, sometimes you regret putting the shield in a certain place and making it awkward for yourself to paint the back of the damn thing! The backs of the shields, bows and arrows, and the spear, I have tried to paint a wood grain effect, sometimes you regret putting the shield in a certain place and making it awkward for yourself to paint the back of the damn thing!
The woodwork.
Matt Varnish Then they were given two coats of Anti-Shine Matt Varnish. Be even more careful when painting on the matt varnish. When  applying the matt, brush it out well from any nooks and  crannies where it is likely to collect and pool.   BASING The bases are 25mm square plastic. I used superglue to stick the models in place, blowing over them to prevent the glue  whitening off on the models.  When positioning the models I  made sure they ranked up okay with each other.
I then filled in between the models bases and square base with  household filler and then left that overnight to go hard. I then  glued on some sharp sand with PVA glue. When the sand was dried hard I painted the whole base with 1.  Leather Brown  2.  I then dry-brushed on Desert Yellow 3.  then I dry-brushed on lightly, Skeleton Bone I then added some flora. Lots of different Gamers Grass flock  tufts and then Gale force nine: Meadow Blend Flock, and they  are ready for battle!  
ANOTHER ELF Elf Champion, Shield transfer by Little Big Men Studios. His  shield is actually the banner decal cut down to fit and amended  with painted on sword cuts. The proper shield decals don't fit  
his larger, slightly different shape shield and I wanted him to  match the plastic elves from the box set. The scratches are very  much inspired (copied from) the LBMS decals.  The figure will  never be available to buy, but he came free during the elf offers,  which is nice.  
THE ELVES formed up ready for battle!
PART 2
1. Paint the shield Uniform Grey.  
1. Paint the shield Matt White.
2. Best pair of scissors to cut out the main shape.
2. Best pair of scissors to cut out the main shape.
6. Disguising the edges.
6. Disguising the edges.
6. Disguising the edges.
Sometimes, as I did, you may not get an exact fit of the transfer and it leaves a bit of the white ground showing without any design on it.
 4. The moistened backing paper comes away.
to really sell the illusion, I carried the sword cut-marks across the edges and sides of the shields. Again highlighting these cut-marks with the appropriate colours highlight really finishes it off. to really sell the illusion, I carried the sword cut-marks across the edges and sides of the shields. Again highlighting these cut-marks with the appropriate colours highlight really finishes it off. to really sell the illusion, I carried the sword cut-marks across the edges and sides of the shields. Again highlighting these cut-marks with the appropriate colours highlight really finishes it off. to really sell the illusion, I carried the sword cut-marks across the edges and sides of the shields. Again highlighting these cut-marks with the appropriate colours highlight really finishes it off.
6. Sometimes, as I did, you may not get an exact fit of the transfer and it leaves a bit of the white ground showing without any  design on it. Not only does this untidy but it completely gives away the fact you have used transfers! 
I wanted a nice deep bronze to set off the light steel armour I wanted a nice deep bronze to set off the light steel armour I wanted a nice deep bronze to set off the light steel armour I wanted a nice deep bronze to set off the light steel armour
1. Rough Iron.
2. Rough Iron plus True Copper.
 4. Weapon Bronze.
 4. Weapon Bronze.
I wanted a nice deep bronze to set off the light steel armour I wanted a nice deep bronze to set off the light steel armour
 4. Weapon Bronze.
 4. Weapon Bronze.
I wanted a nice deep bronze to set off the light steel armour I wanted a nice deep bronze to set off the light steel armour
 4. Weapon Bronze.
 4. Weapon Bronze.
The models were then given a coat of Humbrol polyurethane gloss varnish and set aside for 24 hours to dry completely. Be careful not to let the varnish pool, especially under the horse and on the feet. You don't need a very thick coat of varnish. The models were then given a coat of Humbrol polyurethane gloss varnish and set aside for 24 hours to dry completely. Be careful not to let the varnish pool, especially under the horse and on the feet. You don't need a very thick coat of varnish.
Gloss varnish.
Gloss varnish.
The models were then given a coat of Humbrol polyurethane gloss varnish and set aside for 24 hours to dry completely. Be careful not to let the varnish pool, especially under the horse and on the feet. You don't need a very thick coat of varnish. The models were then given a coat of Humbrol polyurethane gloss varnish and set aside for 24 hours to dry completely. Be careful not to let the varnish pool, especially under the horse and on the feet. You don't need a very thick coat of varnish.
Gloss varnish.
Gloss varnish.
Then they were given two coats of Anti-Shine Matt Varnish. Be even more careful when painting on the matt varnish. When applying the matt, brush it out well from any nooks and crannies where it is likely to collect and pool. Then they were given two coats of Anti-Shine Matt Varnish. Be even more careful when painting on the matt varnish. When applying the matt, brush it out well from any nooks and crannies where it is likely to collect and pool.
Matt varnish.
Matt varnish.
Then they were given two coats of Anti-Shine Matt Varnish. Be even more careful when painting on the matt varnish. When applying the matt, brush it out well from any nooks and crannies where it is likely to collect and pool. Then they were given two coats of Anti-Shine Matt Varnish. Be even more careful when painting on the matt varnish. When applying the matt, brush it out well from any nooks and crannies where it is likely to collect and pool.
Matt varnish.
Matt varnish.
3. Ready for battle! 3. Ready for battle! 3. Ready for battle! 3. Ready for battle!
THE ELVES Based and finished ready for battle!
3. Ready for battle! 3. Ready for battle! 3. Ready for battle! 3. Ready for battle! 3. Ready for battle! 3. Ready for battle! 3. Ready for battle! 3. Ready for battle! ANOTHER ELF ANOTHER ELF ANOTHER ELF ANOTHER ELF
THE ELVES formed up ready for battle!
THE ELVES formed up ready for battle!
AND ANOTHER ELF This elf is made using a body from the Frostgrave soldiers set; I was thinking he could be of a woodland elf or a elf adventurer… 
This elf is made using a body from the Frostgrave soldiers set; I was thinking he could be of a woodland elf or a elf adventurer… This elf is made using a body from the Frostgrave soldiers set; I was thinking he could be of a woodland elf or a elf adventurer… This elf is made using a body from the Frostgrave soldiers set; I was thinking he could be of a woodland elf or a elf adventurer… This elf is made using a body from the Frostgrave soldiers set; I was thinking he could be of a woodland elf or a elf adventurer…