PAINTING GOBLIN WOLF RIDERS
In this article I will go through the approach I have to painting
the plastic goblin wolf riders, the techniques would also apply
to any of the vast numbers plastics now available.
INSPIRATION
That was easy, Lord of the Rings and the Hobbit! I decided not
to use the very nice shield decals made for the plastic goblin
wolf riders by LBM studios, preferring to paint shield designs
but using the lovely LBM decals as inspiration (well copying
them actually!).
I have concentrated the pictures on the goblin officer, the one
with the big sword!
UNDERCOATING
I won’t go through the goblin wolf riders assembled as I have
detailed this kind of thing in several previous articles, (see here
Elf Assembly), when they are fully cured, you can go straight
to the undercoating. Undercoating is essential as it provides a
consistent surface on which to apply the next coats of paint. For
the undercoat I used Humbrol enamel matt black. I usually
undercoat in oil based paint as I find they give better coverage
on the plastic. Again I have detailed this many times in previous
articles.
THE PAINT
I used Army Painter War Paints to paint the goblin wolf riders,
mixing up colours to suit my style and preferences. The names
here reference The Mega Paint Set provides an adequate range
of colours for almost all needs, but you will always need to mix
colours to get the desired results, however I have tried to work
out colour combinations to reduce mixing if possible.
PAINTING
The figure painting follows my well known method of working
from dark to light shaded up from a black undercoat. This three,
four or more colour painting method uses successive tones of
colour (shade, middle and light) which are added to the model
in layers, working up from dark to light. This creates a bold
three-dimensional effect of shadows and highlights, the layers
of colour giving greater depth and subtlety to the model. It may
seem counter-intuitive if you haven’t painted this way before,
but bear with me.
THE SAME COLOURS
Although I painted up three goblin wolf riders on the wolf sprue
they are painted up to go with a unit, so I will concentrate on
describing the painting of just one goblin wolf rider as the
colours on the rest of the goblin wolf riders are similar. I will
show (lots and lots of) relevant pictures of the rest of the goblin
wolf riders from time to time.
the plastic goblin wolf riders, the techniques would also apply
to any of the vast numbers plastics now available.
INSPIRATION
That was easy, Lord of the Rings and the Hobbit! I decided not
to use the very nice shield decals made for the plastic goblin
wolf riders by LBM studios, preferring to paint shield designs
but using the lovely LBM decals as inspiration (well copying
them actually!).
I have concentrated the pictures on the goblin officer, the one
with the big sword!
UNDERCOATING
I won’t go through the goblin wolf riders assembled as I have
detailed this kind of thing in several previous articles, (see here
Elf Assembly), when they are fully cured, you can go straight
to the undercoating. Undercoating is essential as it provides a
consistent surface on which to apply the next coats of paint. For
the undercoat I used Humbrol enamel matt black. I usually
undercoat in oil based paint as I find they give better coverage
on the plastic. Again I have detailed this many times in previous
articles.
THE PAINT
I used Army Painter War Paints to paint the goblin wolf riders,
mixing up colours to suit my style and preferences. The names
here reference The Mega Paint Set provides an adequate range
of colours for almost all needs, but you will always need to mix
colours to get the desired results, however I have tried to work
out colour combinations to reduce mixing if possible.
PAINTING
The figure painting follows my well known method of working
from dark to light shaded up from a black undercoat. This three,
four or more colour painting method uses successive tones of
colour (shade, middle and light) which are added to the model
in layers, working up from dark to light. This creates a bold
three-dimensional effect of shadows and highlights, the layers
of colour giving greater depth and subtlety to the model. It may
seem counter-intuitive if you haven’t painted this way before,
but bear with me.
THE SAME COLOURS
Although I painted up three goblin wolf riders on the wolf sprue
they are painted up to go with a unit, so I will concentrate on
describing the painting of just one goblin wolf rider as the
colours on the rest of the goblin wolf riders are similar. I will
show (lots and lots of) relevant pictures of the rest of the goblin
wolf riders from time to time.
Painting Wolf Riders
Above. The whole unit of goblin wolf riders.
Undercoated goblins and wolves with eyes.
EYES
I normally paint the eyes first so I can get them right before
doing the rest of the model, if the eyes are not great it will spoil
the rest of the paint job! I also took the opportunity to paint in
some teeth on a couple of the goblin wolf riders. The eyes
riders and the wolves are the same colours, painted in with a
Warpaints Insane Detail brush.
1.
The sclera of the eye, are Matt White then painted over
with Pure Red
2.
The irises are a tiny dot of Lava Orange and then a tiny
dot of Daemonic Yellow
FLESH
I did the flesh next. I wanted the goblin wolf rider’s faces to be
quite craggy with lots of lines and wrinkles.
1.
Dark Stone
2.
Plus Matt White, this follows the layer before.
3.
Plus Matt White.
4.
Plus more Matt White.
5.
Plus still more Matt White.
6.
And finally a tiny touch of Pure Red to the flesh mix for
the bottom lip and that is the faces all done.
doing the rest of the model, if the eyes are not great it will spoil
the rest of the paint job! I also took the opportunity to paint in
some teeth on a couple of the goblin wolf riders. The eyes
riders and the wolves are the same colours, painted in with a
Warpaints Insane Detail brush.
1.
The sclera of the eye, are Matt White then painted over
with Pure Red
2.
The irises are a tiny dot of Lava Orange and then a tiny
dot of Daemonic Yellow
FLESH
I did the flesh next. I wanted the goblin wolf rider’s faces to be
quite craggy with lots of lines and wrinkles.
1.
Dark Stone
2.
Plus Matt White, this follows the layer before.
3.
Plus Matt White.
4.
Plus more Matt White.
5.
Plus still more Matt White.
6.
And finally a tiny touch of Pure Red to the flesh mix for
the bottom lip and that is the faces all done.
THE METALWORK
1.
Gun Metal going over all of the area to be steel type
finish.
2.
Dark Tone Ink is then sloshed all over that first coat to
deepen any shadows that might have inadvertently got filled in
by the first coat and to give the metal that, a bit worn, slightly
rusting feel.
Gun Metal going over all of the area to be steel type
finish.
2.
Dark Tone Ink is then sloshed all over that first coat to
deepen any shadows that might have inadvertently got filled in
by the first coat and to give the metal that, a bit worn, slightly
rusting feel.
3. Flesh: Plus Matt White.
3.
Gun Metal again, lightly brushed over again.
4.
Plate Mail Metal is then painted on the high points.
5.
Shining Silver is the top coat, used very sparingly.
6.
Matt Black again, but this time in very small and fine
amounts to add distress and damage marks on the helmets and
swords, each of the marks is highlighted with Shining Silver.
Gun Metal again, lightly brushed over again.
4.
Plate Mail Metal is then painted on the high points.
5.
Shining Silver is the top coat, used very sparingly.
6.
Matt Black again, but this time in very small and fine
amounts to add distress and damage marks on the helmets and
swords, each of the marks is highlighted with Shining Silver.
1. Metalwork: Gun Metal
2. Metalwork: Dark Tone Ink.
5. Shining Silver is the top
coat, used very sparingly.
coat, used very sparingly.
6. Matt Black again, but this time in very small and fine amounts to add distress and damage
marks on the helmets and swords, each of the marks is highlighted with Shining Silver.
marks on the helmets and swords, each of the marks is highlighted with Shining Silver.
DUSTY PINK SCARF
Take care to delineate the strands carefully if you can, even if
you have to go back and neaten up between them with a tiny bit
of Matt Black. Colours as follows:
1.
Chaotic Red.
2.
plus Dragon Red.
3.
plus Matt White.
4.
plus Matt White.
5.
plus Matt White.
DARK RED TUNIC
It’s worth spending a bit of time on the tunic as it is about the
biggest bit of clothing on the goblins.
1.
Chaotic Red mixed with Dragon Red.
2.
plus Dragon Red.
3.
Dragon Red.
4.
plus Matt White.
you have to go back and neaten up between them with a tiny bit
of Matt Black. Colours as follows:
1.
Chaotic Red.
2.
plus Dragon Red.
3.
plus Matt White.
4.
plus Matt White.
5.
plus Matt White.
DARK RED TUNIC
It’s worth spending a bit of time on the tunic as it is about the
biggest bit of clothing on the goblins.
1.
Chaotic Red mixed with Dragon Red.
2.
plus Dragon Red.
3.
Dragon Red.
4.
plus Matt White.
5.
plus Matt White.
6.
Matt Black, in very small and fine amounts to add
damage marks on the edges of the tunic, each of the marks is
highlighted.
plus Matt White.
6.
Matt Black, in very small and fine amounts to add
damage marks on the edges of the tunic, each of the marks is
highlighted.
1. Red Tunic: Chaotic Red
mixed with Dragon Red.
2. Red Tunic: plus Dragon
Red.
DARK GREY BUSKINS
Or leggings or hose:
1.
Uniform Grey mixed with Matt Black.
2.
plus Uniform Grey.
1.
Uniform Grey mixed with Matt Black.
2.
plus Uniform Grey.
3. Red Tunic: Dragon Red.
4. Red Tunic: plus Matt
White.
3.
pure Uniform Grey.
4.
plus Matt White.
5.
plus more Matt White.
pure Uniform Grey.
4.
plus Matt White.
5.
plus more Matt White.
DARK BROWN BOOTS & BELTS
And the scabbard:
1.
Oak Brown mixed with Matt Black
2.
pure Oak Brown.
3.
plus Desert Yellow.
4.
plus Desert Yellow.
5.
plus Matt White.
Oak Brown mixed with Matt Black
2.
pure Oak Brown.
3.
plus Desert Yellow.
4.
plus Desert Yellow.
5.
plus Matt White.
THE GREEN BAG
1.
Matt Black mixed with Greenskin
2.
plus Greenskin.
3.
plus Greenskin.
4.
plus Greenskin.
5.
plus Matt White.
Matt Black mixed with Greenskin
2.
plus Greenskin.
3.
plus Greenskin.
4.
plus Greenskin.
5.
plus Matt White.
Close-up of tear.
1. Boots & Belts: Oak Brown
mixed with Matt Black.
3-5. Boots & Belts: plus Desert Yellow and Matt White.
THE BLACK FUR
The fur cape, colours as follows:
1.
Matt Black mixed with Skeleton Bone.
2.
plus Skeleton Bone.
Matt Black mixed with Skeleton Bone.
2.
plus Skeleton Bone.
The green bag.
1. Black Fur: Matt Black
mixed with Skeleton Bone.
2-4. Black Fur: plus more
Skeleton Bone.
5. Black Fur: plus Matt
White.
3.
plus more Skeleton Bone.
4.
plus more Skeleton Bone.
5.
plus Matt White.
plus more Skeleton Bone.
4.
plus more Skeleton Bone.
5.
plus Matt White.
THE BRICK RED WRISTBAND
1.
Chaotic Red.
2.
plus Daemonic Yellow.
3.
plus Daemonic Yellow.
4.
plus Daemonic Yellow.
5.
plus Matt White.
THE RED SHIELD
1.
Chaotic Red mixed with Dragon Red.
2.
plus Dragon Red.
3.
pure Dragon Red.
4.
plus Pure Red.
5.
plus Lava Orange.
The design is painted in Matt Black, with a bit of highlighting.
THE TEETH
1.
Leather Brown.
2.
plus Desert Yellow.
3.
plus Desert Yellow.
4.
plus Skeleton Bone.
5.
pure Skeleton Bone.
THE TEETH
1.
Leather Brown.
2.
plus Desert Yellow.
3.
plus Desert Yellow.
4.
plus Skeleton Bone.
5.
pure Skeleton Bone.
The brick red wristband.
The red shield.
The bronze.
1. Flesh: Dark Stone
2. Flesh: Dark Stone plus Matt White.
4. Flesh: Plus more Matt White.
5. Flesh: Plus still more Matt White.
6. A tiny touch of Pure Red to the flesh mix for the bottom lip.
3. Metalwork: Gun Metal again, lightly brushed over again.
4. Metalwork: Plate Mail Metal is painted on the high points.
1. Pink Scarf: Chaotic Red.
5. Red Tunic: plus Matt
White.
5. Red Tunic: plus Matt
White.
6. Damage marks on the
edges of the tunic.
6. Damage marks on the
edges of the tunic.
1. Grey Buskins: Uniform
Grey mixed with Matt Black.
2. Grey Buskins: plus
Uniform Grey.
3. Grey Buskins: pure
Uniform Grey.
4-5. Grey Buskins: plus more
Matt White.
THE WOODWORK
The backs of the shields, bows and arrows, spears and knife
hilts, I have tried to paint a wood grain effect, sometimes you
regret putting the shield in a certain place and making it
awkward for you to paint the back of the damn thing! Colours
as follows:
1.
Oak Brown mixed with Fur Brown.
2.
plus Desert Yellow.
3.
plus Desert Yellow.
4.
plus more Desert Yellow.
5.
plus Matt White.
THE BRONZE
A darkish bronze for these boys but with a bit of a glint.
1.
Rough Iron.
2.
plus Weapon Bronze.
3.
plus Weapon Bronze.
4.
plus Greedy Gold.
5.
plus Bright Gold.
hilts, I have tried to paint a wood grain effect, sometimes you
regret putting the shield in a certain place and making it
awkward for you to paint the back of the damn thing! Colours
as follows:
1.
Oak Brown mixed with Fur Brown.
2.
plus Desert Yellow.
3.
plus Desert Yellow.
4.
plus more Desert Yellow.
5.
plus Matt White.
THE BRONZE
A darkish bronze for these boys but with a bit of a glint.
1.
Rough Iron.
2.
plus Weapon Bronze.
3.
plus Weapon Bronze.
4.
plus Greedy Gold.
5.
plus Bright Gold.
These pictures show the rest of the riders painted up to this point; you will notice that although I have not made them uniform in
their dress, I have use the same colour palette on each to give them a unit look.
their dress, I have use the same colour palette on each to give them a unit look.
