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I’m describing here a couple of the Oathmark Elf Cavalry that have thundered across my painting desk.

INSPIRATION

I more or less followed the Elf Infantry that I painted when they came out, you can see what I did with them here LINK, and there are only a few differences where the models vary from the infantry figures and of course there were horses! I used the very nice shield decals made especially for the Elf Cavalry by LBM studios.  I will reference those articles on the infantry quite a bit, as many of the techniques are the same, LINK.

ASSEMBLY

The assembly is pretty straightforward, much like the infantry detailed here LINK, but of course there were horses as well! The horses go to together a treat, and in fact any horse half will fit with any other (left and right I mean not two rights!) however they are lettered on the frame so you can assemble them as they were designed. I didn’t notice this of course, even though I photographed the frame for us, ho hum! But that didn’t matter as any half will indeed fit any other. I did do the tiniest bit filling and sanding on the horses rump to disguise the joint. Once they were put together I primed them grey for photography as I always do. 

UNDERCOATING

You can find details of the undercoating here LINK, but it’s basically matt black Humbrol. I didn’t use the matt black on the shield however, that was left in the primer grey then painted Matt White in preparation for the shield transfer.   

THE PAINT

I used Army Painter War Paints to paint the elf cavalry. The names here reference The Mega Paint Set provides a range of colours for almost all needs, but you will often need to mix colours to get the desired results.

PAINTING

The figure painting follows my well known method of working from dark to light shaded up from a black undercoat. This three, four or more colour painting method uses successive tones of colour (shade, middle to light) which are added to the model in layers, working up from dark to light. This creates a bold three-dimensional effect of shadows and highlights, the layers of colour giving greater depth and subtlety to the model.

THE SAME COLOURS

Due to time constraints I only painted two elf cavalrymen, and I will concentrate on describing the painting of just one elf as the colours on the rest of the elves are similar. I will show (lots and lots of) relevant pictures of the other of the elf from time to time. I do plan to finish off the entire unit at some point, but I have many such plans…

THE METALWORK

Normally I would do the flesh first on most models, but there is a significant amount of armour and chainmail to do on these models and one of the techniques I use for metalwork can be a bit messy, I find when using this method it’s easier to get it all done at once first off. Then you can tidy up and carry on with the rest of the painting knowing one big job is done.

DRY BRUSHING

The armour is painted using a technique called dry brushing. Essentially this is done by using a flattish, short, brush with a lot of the paint removed and
North Star Military Figures OATHMARK: BATTLES OF A LOST AGE. Fantasy Mass Battle Game from Osprey Games. Miniatures by North Star and Osprey. Painting Elf Cavalry
Painting Elf Cavalry
Above. The painted Elves.

EYES

I normally paint the eyes first so I can get them right before doing the rest of the model, (but here I did it after the armour as detailed above), if the eyes are not great it will spoil the rest of the paint job! I also took the opportunity to paint in some teeth in white. 1. The whites are Matt White. 2. The irises are Deep Blue with a tiny amount of Oak Brown.

FLESH

I did the flesh next. I wanted the elves face to be mostly smooth and with few wrinkles or blemishes, no
baggy eyelids, also I wanted a light skin tone so I used the colour combinations below. 1. Fur Brown. 2. Tanned Flesh, this follows very much the layer before. 3. Tanned Flesh plus Matt White, you can see starting to really pull out the details. 4. Tanned Flesh plus more Matt White. 5. and plus more Matt White. 6. plus a tiny bit more Matt White. 7. and finally a tiny touch of Pure Red to the flesh mix for the bottom lip.

THE BUFF BITS

Boots and gloves. Take care to delineate the fingers carefully if you can, even if you have to go back and neaten up between them with a tiny bit of Matt Black. Colours as follows: 1. Desert Yellow plus Oak Brown. 2. plus Matt White. 3. plus Matt White. 4. plus Matt White.
I find when using this method itís easier to get it all done at once first off. Then you can tidy up and carry on with the rest of the painting knowing one big job is done. I find when using this method itís easier to get it all done at once first off. Then you can tidy up and carry on with the rest of the painting knowing one big job is done. I find when using this method itís easier to get it all done at once first off. Then you can tidy up and carry on with the rest of the painting knowing one big job is done. I find when using this method itís easier to get it all done at once first off. Then you can tidy up and carry on with the rest of the painting knowing one big job is done.
The metalwork.

THE GREY PLUME

Helmet plumes, colours as follows: 1. Dungeon Grey. 2. plus Matt White. 3. plus more Matt White. 4. plus more Matt White.

THE BRIGHT BLUE TROUSERS

And the edges of the shields that the transfers didn’t cover, oh yes, I did the transfers, (for a detailed look at applying the shield transfers see my article on the Elf Infantry LINK. I used the scalpel to scrape the shield surface smooth before applying the transfer; colours as follows: 1. Ultramarine Blue plus Deep Blue. 2. plus Matt White. 3. plus more Matt White. 4. plus more Matt White.

THE BLUE GREY BITS

These are the trim to the chainmail, details on the gloves and boots and the little pouch. Colours as follows: 1. Wolf Grey and Matt Black. 2. plus Wolf Grey and Matt White. 3. plus Matt White. 4. plus Matt White.
The Elf Cavalry Horse Frame
The Elf Cavalry assembled and mounted on their horses.
1.Fur Brown. 1.Fur Brown. 1.Fur Brown. 1.Fur Brown.
1. Fur Brown.
I did the flesh next. I wanted the elves face to be mostly smooth and with few wrinkles or blemishes, no baggy eyelids, also I wanted a light skin tone so I used the colour combinations below. I did the flesh next. I wanted the elves face to be mostly smooth and with few wrinkles or blemishes, no baggy eyelids, also I wanted a light skin tone so I used the colour combinations below.
3.Tanned Flesh plus Matt White.
I did the flesh next. I wanted the elves face to be mostly smooth and with few wrinkles or blemishes, no baggy eyelids, also I wanted a light skin tone so I used the colour combinations below. I did the flesh next. I wanted the elves face to be mostly smooth and with few wrinkles or blemishes, no baggy eyelids, also I wanted a light skin tone so I used the colour combinations below.
2. Tanned Flesh,
2. Tanned Flesh,
I did the flesh next. I wanted the elves face to be mostly smooth and with few wrinkles or blemishes, no baggy eyelids, also I wanted a light skin tone so I used the colour combinations below. I did the flesh next. I wanted the elves face to be mostly smooth and with few wrinkles or blemishes, no baggy eyelids, also I wanted a light skin tone so I used the colour combinations below.
5.   and plus more Matt White.
I did the flesh next. I wanted the elves face to be mostly smooth and with few wrinkles or blemishes, no baggy eyelids, also I wanted a light skin tone so I used the colour combinations below. I did the flesh next. I wanted the elves face to be mostly smooth and with few wrinkles or blemishes, no baggy eyelids, also I wanted a light skin tone so I used the colour combinations below.
4.  Tanned Flesh plus more Matt White.
I did the flesh next. I wanted the elves face to be mostly smooth and with few wrinkles or blemishes, no baggy eyelids, also I wanted a light skin tone so I used the colour combinations below. I did the flesh next. I wanted the elves face to be mostly smooth and with few wrinkles or blemishes, no baggy eyelids, also I wanted a light skin tone so I used the colour combinations below.
7.  and finally a tiny touch of Pure Red to the flesh mix for the bottom lip.
I did the flesh next. I wanted the elves face to be mostly smooth and with few wrinkles or blemishes, no baggy eyelids, also I wanted a light skin tone so I used the colour combinations below. I did the flesh next. I wanted the elves face to be mostly smooth and with few wrinkles or blemishes, no baggy eyelids, also I wanted a light skin tone so I used the colour combinations below.
6.  plus a tiny bit more Matt White.
Take care to delineate the fingers carefully if you can, even if you have to go back and neaten up between them with a tiny bit of Matt Black. Colours as follows: 1.Dungeon Grey 2.plus Matt White  3.plus more Matt White 4.plus more Matt White Take care to delineate the fingers carefully if you can, even if you have to go back and neaten up between them with a tiny bit of Matt Black. Colours as follows: Take care to delineate the fingers carefully if you can, even if you have to go back and neaten up between them with a tiny bit of Matt Black. Colours as follows: 1.Ash grey plus Matt White. 2.plus Matt White. 3.plus more Matt White.  4.pure Matt White. 1.Ash grey plus Matt White. 2.plus Matt White. 3.plus more Matt White.  4.pure Matt White. 1.Ultramarine Blue plus Deep Blue 2.plus Matt White  3.plus more Matt White 4.plus more Matt White 1.Ultramarine Blue plus Deep Blue 2.plus Matt White  3.plus more Matt White 4.plus more Matt White 1.Dirt Splatter. 2.plus Desert Yellow. 3.plus more Desert Yellow. 4.plus Matt White. 1.Dirt Splatter. 2.plus Desert Yellow. 3.plus more Desert Yellow. 4.plus Matt White. 1.Wolf Grey and Matt Black 2.plus Wolf Grey and Matt White  3.plus Matt White  4.plus Matt White 1.Wolf Grey and Matt Black 2.plus Wolf Grey and Matt White  3.plus Matt White  4.plus Matt White but not for painting OAKP303 - Elf Cavalry  Oathmark Elf Cavalry OAKP303 - Elf Cavalry  Oathmark Elf Cavalry
The Elf Cavalry Horse Frame
touching raised sections. Dip the end of your brush in the paint and make sure all the bristles are well soaked at the end then remove much of the paint onto a tissue.  Draw the brush back and forth over the high spots of the model.  You will need to brush back and forth several times as the best effect is achieved with slow gradual build up of paint. Be wary of the paint drying on the brush. (Dry brushing is a bit if a misnomer actually, as you will find the brush needs to be wet; however the paint itself needs to be dryer and thicker than if you were painting normally). Like normal painting I do three or more layers of dry brushing as follows. Also slightly confusingly I use a layer of ink wash between first two layers. For a stage by stage pictures check out my Elf Infantry article LINK. 1. Gun Metal is applied most thickly, going over nearly all of the area that needs to be steel type finish. 2. Dark Tone Ink is then sloshed all over that first coat to deepen any shadows that might have inadvertently got filled in by the first coat and to give the metal that, a bit worn, slightly used feel. 3. Gun Metal again, more lightly brushed over again. 4. Plate Mail Metal is then dry brushed on. 5. Shining Silver is the top coat, well almost, dry brushed on very sparingly. 6. Matt Black is then used to tidy up around where the paint has gone over where it shouldn’t have, see how neat it looks now. 7. Matt Black again, but this time in very small and fine amounts to add distress and damage marks on the helmets and swords, each of the marks is highlighted with Shining Silver.
1. Fur Brown.
1. Fur Brown.
1. Fur Brown.
The Buff Bits. Boots and gloves.
The Grey Helmet plume.
THE WHITE BITS 1. Ash grey plus Matt White. 2. plus Matt White. 3. plus more Matt White. 4. pure Matt White.
For a detailed look at applying the shield transfers see my article on the Elf Infantry.
The Bright Blue Trousers.
The White Bits.

THE WOODWORK

The backs of the shields and the spear, I have tried to paint a wood grain effect, sometimes you might regret putting the shield in a certain place and making it awkward for yourself to paint the back of the damn thing! Colours as follows: 1. Dirt Splatter. 2. plus Desert Yellow. 3. plus more Desert Yellow. 4. plus Matt White.

THE HAIR

More blonde elves! Not too much on the helmeted heads obviously, but the hair repays careful painting, delineating the hairs as much as your brush will allow. Colours are as follows. Be aware you don’t need much brown to darken this yellow. 1. Desert Yellow plus a small amount of Oak Brown. 2. Desert Yellow. 3. Desert Yellow plus Matt White. 4. plus more Matt White.
The Blue Grey Bits.
The Woodwork.
1.Dirt Splatter. 2.plus Desert Yellow. 3.plus more Desert Yellow. 4.plus Matt White. 1.Dirt Splatter. 2.plus Desert Yellow. 3.plus more Desert Yellow. 4.plus Matt White.
The Woodwork.
1.Dirt Splatter. 2.plus Desert Yellow. 3.plus more Desert Yellow. 4.plus Matt White. 1.Dirt Splatter. 2.plus Desert Yellow. 3.plus more Desert Yellow. 4.plus Matt White.

THE BLACK BITS

Belts, scabbards and other bits and pieces, colours as follows: 1. Matt Black plus Skeleton Bone. 2. plus Skeleton Bone. 3. plus more Skeleton Bone. 4. plus more Skeleton Bone.
1.Desert Yellow plus a small amount of Oak Brown. 2.Desert Yellow.  3.Desert Yellow plus Matt White.  4.plus more Matt White. 1.Desert Yellow plus a small amount of Oak Brown. 2.Desert Yellow.  3.Desert Yellow plus Matt White.  4.plus more Matt White.
The Hair.
1.Desert Yellow plus a small amount of Oak Brown. 2.Desert Yellow.  3.Desert Yellow plus Matt White.  4.plus more Matt White. 1.Desert Yellow plus a small amount of Oak Brown. 2.Desert Yellow.  3.Desert Yellow plus Matt White.  4.plus more Matt White. 1.Matt Black plus Skeleton Bone. 2.plus Skeleton Bone. 3.plus more Skeleton Bone. 4.plus more Skeleton Bone. 1.Matt Black plus Skeleton Bone. 2.plus Skeleton Bone. 3.plus more Skeleton Bone. 4.plus more Skeleton Bone.
The Black Bits.
1.Matt Black plus Skeleton Bone. 2.plus Skeleton Bone. 3.plus more Skeleton Bone. 4.plus more Skeleton Bone. 1.Matt Black plus Skeleton Bone. 2.plus Skeleton Bone. 3.plus more Skeleton Bone. 4.plus more Skeleton Bone. 1.Matt Black plus Skeleton Bone. 2.plus Skeleton Bone. 3.plus more Skeleton Bone. 4.plus more Skeleton Bone. 1.Matt Black plus Skeleton Bone. 2.plus Skeleton Bone. 3.plus more Skeleton Bone. 4.plus more Skeleton Bone. 1.Matt Black plus Skeleton Bone. 2.plus Skeleton Bone. 3.plus more Skeleton Bone. 4.plus more Skeleton Bone. 1.Matt Black plus Skeleton Bone. 2.plus Skeleton Bone. 3.plus more Skeleton Bone. 4.plus more Skeleton Bone.